Travelling in the Tibetan regions of China is witnessing vibrant displays of faith : from the endless gyration of pilgrims at stupas to the monks psalmodies punctuating the day, Tibetan Buddhism is thriving. Such a vitality is counterintuitive: the religion can be seen as a major threat to Chinese rule over the region, one might expect stricter controls and more subdued expressions of faith. Indeed, religious repression is not absent as the recent dismantling of monastic camps shows. Beijing has embarked on a twofold strategy : embracing Tibetan Buddhism to better control it while clamping down on any challenge to its rule. The following photo essay attempts to show many aspects of a faith caught between revival and repression, sinicization and embodiment of the Tibetan struggle.

In Markam (Sichuan), Lobsang Ishi an 80 year-old monk stands at the doors of his monastery on which propaganda posters featuring Chinese leaders have been put up. .Since the 2008 riots in Tibetan regions, the Chinese government has embarked on a cam

At Labrang Monastery (Gansu), a penitent crawling near a group of monks gathered for a philosophy lesson.

At Labrang monastery (Gansu Province), monks have gathered for a philosophy lesson. Labrang has long been one of the most influential Tibetan Buddhism centre outside Tibet, with 4000 monks studying there at its height. There are now about 1000 monks

At Rongwo Monastery in Renbkong (Tongreng - Qinghai), monks engaged in debates. In Tibetan monasteries, debates are an everyday part of life, and an important part of learning. They can last for hours.

At Kirti Monastery (Ngawa - Aba, Sichuan) a novice monk throwing prayer papers during a religious festival. In March 2008, major protests erupted there. People’s Armed Police intervention resulted in several deaths.

At Kirti Monastery (Ngawa - Aba, Sichuan) pilgrims throwing prayer papers during a religious festival. The monastery which has a history of protests, has been at the centre of a wave of self-immolation that started in 2011. Dozens of monks or ex-mon

At Kirti monastery, young monks at the door of a prayer hall attending a religious ceremony. The monastery has been under close watch by authorities since protests erupted there in 2008, followed in 2011 by a wave of self-immolations claiming the li

Monks and locals have gathered for areligious celebration at Gonchen Monastery in Derge.

A portrait of the Dalai Lama, is on display in a temple in Garze prefecture (Ganzi -Sichuan). Although public display of his portrait are banned and can results in jail time for offenders, the rule is not always enforced. The portrait can be seen in

Shades of Tibetan pilgrims doing the Kora (making a circumambulation) around a temple In Ngawa (aba- Sichuan).

A monk making a kora (a circumambulation - religious practice) at the Parkhang lamasery, in Derge (Sichuan).

A Tibetan woman in prosternation as a monk is walking past. The Buddhist clergy sways great influence on Tibetans, challenging the authority of secular rulers. The local mediation of community or family disputes is often carried by lamas with no inv

A han Chinese tourist in prayers at a temple in Garze Prefecture (Sichuan). Tibetan Buddhism has gained lots of followers worlwide and in mainland China where number wealthy Chinese often follow the advice of monks.

Young monks walking past the construction site of a new large monastery in Litang (Sichuan). In recent years, the growing number of Tibetan Buddhists outside Tibet as well as the increased standard of living of Tibetans has made religious communitie

Novice monks before the start of the morning class. Monasteries are key to the preservation of Tibetan culture.

A novice monk, learning Tibetan at a monastery in Yushu (Qinghai). Since bilingual Chinese-Tibetan education has disappeared, many young Tibetans can’t read or write their own language.

Novice monks during a Tibetan language class at a monastery in Yushu (Qinghai). Monasteries are the only place to get a full Tibetan education. Recently private Tibetan classes have been shut down and monasteries have been banned from teaching Tibet

At the Parkhang lamasery, in Derge (Sichuan), workers printing Tibetan texts using woddblocks following a centuries-old tradition. This printing press is the embodiment of a hallowed tradition and is one site where the Tibetan language is being pres

Monks checking religious books for sale on a street of Larung Gar (Serta, Sichuan), a monastic camp that once had 20 000 monks and nuns studying there, making it the world’s largest Buddhist institute.

A nun holding a prayer wheel at the monastic camp of Larung Gar (Serta Sichuan).

In Larung Gar, a monk looking at workers dismantling a house, as authorities have decided to reduce the number of people living and studying at the monastic camp. The growth of this spiritual place had become a challenge to Beijing efforts to contro

A monk walking past construction workers dismantling a house. The number of monks and nuns studying at Larung Gar has dropped from 20 000 to 5 000.

Nuns coming out of a class at Yarchen Gar monastic camp. 10 000 nuns used to study, and pray at this religious settlement, high on the Tibetan plateau.

A communal water tap on a street in Yarchen Gar. The living conditions for the nuns of this settlement are basic. Poor hygiene and comfort haven’t deterred thousands to come here to study, pray and meditate.

A monk looking at Yarchen Gar settlement from a hill. Half of the settlement has been destroyed since this picture was taken.

Changing landscapes

The left behind kids of rural China