Centuries ago, armed by European merchants eager to acquire cloves and nutmegs, then worth more than gold, dozens of European vessels sunk or got lost trying to find their way to there. In the XVIIth century, once a relatively secure maritime road established, Portugal, Spain, England and the Netherlands went at war to acquire control over the islands and their precious spices. After many bloody battles and thousands of deaths both native and European, the Dutch prevailed and the last British stronghold, the small island of Run was exchanged by the latter, for Manhattan which was lost its name of New Amsterdam to be renamed New York.

In the pilot's cabin of the "Asia Permai" cargo ship, a nautical chart indicates the road to the Banda Islands nicknamed the Spice Islands.

In the island of Banda Neira, a boy showing a handful of fresh nutmegs he just collected. Until the mid XIXth century the Banda islands were the only location for the production of the coveted spice.

A young boy harvesting nutmegs at a plantation in Banda Neira.

Workers filling bags of nutmegs to be exported to China, and Europe, in warehouse on Ternate Island. The retail price for one bag would be $6000 in the US or Europe.

At a warehouse on Ternate Island a female worker sorting nutmegs. Most of the spice trade is run by Indonesian Chinese businessmen.

On ternate Island, workers sorting and preparing nutmegs for export.

Piles of nutmegs waiting for sorting at a hardware store run by ethnic Chinese, on Ternate Island.

A woman spreading nutmegs to dry in the sun by on a roadside of Ternate Island.

A man standing on the walls of a XVIIth century Spanish fort on Tidore Island which was used to fend off attacks by Portuguese vessels from the nearby island of Ternate. During the for 200 years starting in the XVI century, Spanish, Portugese, Briti

Kids playing marbles by the jetty of the small Rhun Island. Run, was the object of a century long fight between British and Dutch naval forces for the control of its nutmeg production. Eventually the British surrendered and exchanged Rhun island for

A young boy walking past a Dutch colonial building in Banda Neira. The small island, is lined with remains of colonial buildings. During the spice wars between The Portugese, Dutch and British, thousands of Bandanese died. The Banda islands populati

In Banda Neira, a family is repainting its house ahead of Eid, while preparing a bag of nutmegs to bring to a local ethinic Chinese trader.

The fish market in Banda Neira. Besides nutmegs, fishing and tourism are the main sources of revenues for Bandanese.

Teenagers have gathered at sunset on Banda Neira airport runway. The airport is seldom used. The company that used to run weekly fights between Maluku capital, Ambon, and Banda Neira went bankrupt.

At the Sultan’s palace, a man is laying a carpet for the prayer time.

In Ternate, Christians belonging to a protestant Pentecostal church leaving after the mass. In 1999, the Christian minorities of Ternate and Tidore islands were victims of murderous inter-religious riots. They were evacuated by the Indonesian army.

The ruins of Banda Neira Catholic church, burnt down during the 1999 intra-religious violence. The church was burnt by mistake. Muslim rioters thougt it was a Protestant church. The Catholic community is rarely the target of religious violence and o

During a celebration of Eid at the end of Ramadan, children marching and singing “Allah Akbar”

A Pelni ferry has arrived in Banda Neira harbour. Transport between the Banda Islands and the rest of Indonesia is scarce. Once or twice a week, a ferry comes to Banda Neira and bring passengers and goods to Ambon, the provincial capital of the Malu

In Banda Neira, a man getting on a ferry to Ambon, the provincial capital of the Malukus.

Young passengers on a Pelni ferry heading to Ambon.

Passengers trying to sleep under a makeshift tent, set-up aboard a cargo ship sailing from Ambon to Banda Neira. When ferry boats are unavailable, cargo ship take passengers traveling in the Banda islands.

From Afghanistan to China through the Pamir

By train, by boat along the Irrawaddy (Myanmar)